Questions from Our Clients

1. What is Alternative Pain Therapies?
2. When is the right time for declawing your cat? 
3. What is involved in Deworming a pet?
4. My pet has really dry skin, What causes this? 
5. Feline Urological Syndrome (F.U.S) What is this?
6. Fleas, Fleas, Fleas. What can be done about them? 
7. Our Cats will not take their pills!!
8. Dogs and pills, a challenging task!! 
9. How do I Set Up a Terrarium/Vivarium for Lizards and Reptiles?
10. Setting up a fresh water fish tank, what do I need?

If you have you experienced the discomfort of back pain, you can imagine what your pet can go through, should they develop a similar disorder. The good news is that new methods of treatment are available that not only treat the pain, but can resolve the condition markedly-sometimes making the use of pain medications unnecessary except for occasional 'flare-ups'.

If your pet has signs of discomfort, consult your veterinarian who will perform a physical exam and possibly take x-rays. After the cause has been identified, the use of various pain medications, either corticosteroids or non-steroidal anti-inflammatories, may be considered. Most pets require blood work to lessen the possibility of side effects occurring due to any medication, so expect this too.

If the condition is arthritic in nature there are two additional adjuncts that may be considered, in addition to pain medications. The most common additions to the above medication(s) are food additives such as Glucosamine and/or Chondroitin. These products are also found in shark cartilage and have been found to significantly lessen the clinical signs of pain, when it is of arthritic origin. While pain medications will simply 'mask' the signs of arthritic pain, allowing further damage to the joint to occur, these food additives appear to stabilize the remaining cartilage in the joints. The important difference is that by slowing any further degradation of the joint's cartilage, the pain is lessened-sometimes completely. This results in decreased pain medication doses, and reduced side effects if these are an issue in your particular pet.

Another alternative that can be used is magnet therapy. While still controversial, some cases that become increasingly unmanageable with pain medications may benefit from this therapy. Most clients come in for daily therapy that lasts up to a week, after which if improvement is noted, the owner treats the patient at home. Some owners opt for a magnetic pet bed in addition to the use of a powerful magnet. Some clients are so impressed by the results, that they put all their pets on similar beds. However, this therapy may not have significant results for up to a month, but it is worth consideration.

In fact, magnetic therapy has had significant results for some patients not in pain at all. Some patients with altered nervous function, or inflammatory disorders that affect the intestines, skin and other organs have also benefited from this therapy as well. As with any therapy, it is important to consult with your veterinarian in order to not only find methods of pain management available to your pet, but to ensure that any treatment is appropriate for your loving pet.

Please contact your veterinarian for more information.

1. Declawing may be performed to remove infected nailbeds and or neoplasms (growths) but is most often done to prevent furniture scratching and ensure a satisfactory relationship between cat and its owner.
2. Most declaws involve only the front feet (special circumstances and permission from your veterinarian are required before all feet will be declawed). Cats that have their hind claws are still able to defend themselves and even climb to escape danger. Even though declawed cats are not defenseless we still recommend that the be kept indoors.
3. The best age for declawing is 3-6 months of age, but the surgery may be performed at any age.
4. Many people choose to have their pet declawed at the same time as their spay or neuter, this prevents the animal form having to undergo two sets of surgery/anesthesia. Your cat must be 6 months of age for his/her spay or neuter.
5. The surgery is performed under a general anesthetic and requires hospitalization for at least one night. Bandages are left on the feet overnight and removed in the morning. Assuming the cat's feet are fine the morning after the surgery they may go home that day. More mature cats often take longer to heal and therefore may require an additional nights stay. A phone call the day following the surgery will allow the veterinarian time to assess the cat's status and decide on the time of his/her discharge.
6. There are no sutures to be removed from the declaw. The skin is closed with surgical glue.
7. We recommend using "Yesterday's News" cat litter for approximately two weeks following the surgery. The recycled newspaper pellets are large and therefore do not get caught in the toes. Conventional litter may become lodged in the feet and cause irritation following the surgery. Occasionally cats will refuse to use the new litter, if this happens return to their normal cat litter and keep a close eye on the feet.
8. Although the feet are sometimes tender at first, most cats can walk normally within a week after surgery. The younger the cat, the quicker the recovery.
9. Notify your veterinary clinic if any of the following occur:
• The feet appear swollen or are bleeding. 
• There is a reluctance to walk after 5 days. 
• There is any change in the general health of the cat (e.g. appetite, activity level, etc.)
10. Jumping and vigorous exercise should be discouraged for three weeks after surgery.

Frequently, when you have received a new puppy or kitten, and with an 'exotic' or pocket pet, the vendor or breeder has had the pet "dewormed"-but does it end there? While most pets with worm infestations do not look ill, they cause two additional, significant problems, while possibly becoming ill themselves. Animals with worms cause the environment around you to become infested and, on rare occasions, spread these parasites to us. Immunocompromised adults, children, or those in ill health are at risk for infections.

Most people believe that they can tell by looking at their pet's droppings if worms are present. Unfortunately, with the exception of Tapeworms, microscopic eggs transmit Roundworms, Hookworms, and Whipworms. The most effective method to diagnose this problem is by a fecal exam-usually with the yearly examination.

Roundworms can be spread on soil or unwashed vegetables, via mother's milk to the puppies/kittens, and can enter people on unwashed hands for example. On occasion such infections cause allergic-like rashes, but can be much more serious in a very few cases leading to vision concerns or problems with the nervous system in our children. Hookworms are spread in much the same manner as are roundworms, and in addition to causing similar symptoms for roundworm, Hookworm can also lead to cramps and diarrhoea when they move into our intestines.

Whipworms have rarely caused any serious medical conditions in people. There are basically two families of Tapeworms that are of concern. The first is spread by fleas and can lead to gastrointestinal upset in your pet and us. The other main family of Tapeworms, while very rare, can cause cysts with your pet's (or our) tissues and organs, which lead to specific problems with the organ affected. For example, some liver diseases in dogs and cats are related to cysts in this organ.

Unfortunately, most over-the-counter dewormers are losing their general effectiveness due to overuse or improper dosing, and tapeworms are resistant to most of these products. So, at the time of your next visit to your veterinarian, ask them if deworming is a concern for your pet. For example, some heartworm medications also act as dewormers for many other worms - a great added bonus!

Parents with young children may want to deworm their pet yearly or more often even if the pet is indoors only. Why? Because its possible for a young child to bring them in the household on unwashed hands for example and start an infestation in your home. 

The best thing is that Deworming is simple to do at home with a little guidance from the staff at your nearest veterinary clinic.

One more important sign of a problem - if your pet scoots or drags their backside on the ground-this is not a sign of worms at all. Have your pet's anal glands checked before they swell more and become infected.

Occasionally, you will find dandruff on your pet's skin. Just like ourselves, our pets can experience dry skin at any time, but in the winter months, this condition seems more common.

Make an effort to regularly check your pet's skin and ears for dandruff, welts, or pustules. Most often there is an underlying infection that, if attended to quickly, will resolve in short order. Occasionally, the skin is reacting to the presence of fleas or mites. More often, flakes or scale caught in the hair indicates a bacterial or fungal infection, possibly even an allergic condition. Have your veterinarian examine your pet and discuss any medical therapy that is necessary. But, how can we lessen the likelihood of a problem in the first place?

Attention to your pet's skin is a commonly overlooked aspect of regular pet care and encompasses regular brushing, bathing and occasional grooming. Don't forget that the skin is the bodies' largest organ and is important in protecting your pet from diseases, parasites, and injury. Also, just like any other part of your pet, the skin is affected by stress, disease, and possibly the most important factor, diet.

In addition to the care mentioned earlier, keeping the skin healthy can be assisted with a good diet or with the addition of dietary supplements high in omega-3,6 fatty acids in a ratio of about 1:5 to 1:10, which can be found in fish oils and flax seed oil for example. Other additives thought to have some influence on skin health are vitamins C and E, along with zinc when given in the correct amounts. Studies on the use of these products indicate that their use in the food gives the greatest benefits. The addition of bacon fat, vegetable oil or other similar oils can actually lead to the development of serious illnesses in your pet, such as pancreatitis for example and should be avoided.

Another way to assist in moistening the skin is the use of a general cleansing shampoo with either a conditioner, emollient/moisturizer and/or a humectant. Discuss the proper shampoos for your pet but, proper pH balanced shampoos are an important first step in skin and hair care. Please note that conditioners work most effectively when the skin is still wet. The emollients usually include glycerol esters, lanolin, and fatty acids, which appear to soften the skin, helping to both rehydrate and keep the skin moist after shampooing.

Humectants appear to work more effectively on shorthaired pets. These products include glycerine, propylene glycol, urea and lactic acid and act to increase the water content of the skin. For winter associated dry skin, they can be sprayed from a mister bottle on the hair and skin between bathing.

Finally, just like us, towel drying your pet is much better than using a hairdryer. The airflow and intense heat can just add to the underlying problem. Instead, try to use towels for the most part and, when necessary, use the cool or warm setting to aid in comfortably drying your pet.

For further information, please contact your veterinarian.

1. F.U.S. is an inflammation of the urinary system of cats. It can involve:
• Cystitis- an inflammation of the bladder
• Mineral crystal (sand) in the urine
• Urinary infection
• Life threatening blockage of urination- in the urethra
2. The cause of F.U.S. is not fully understood. Bacterial/viral infections, magnesium and mineral (ash) content of the cat's food, and individual traits of each cat are all involved.
3. Usually, the first signs of F.U.S. are: urination outside of the litter box, straining or painful urination, and blood in the urine.
4. If any obstruction to urination ("blocked") is present, it is an EMERGENCY. The cat may be depressed, weak, and possibly vomiting. Your veterinarian may need to sedate your pet, and pass a urethral catheter in order to drain the urine from the bladder. Antibiotics, fluids, (given either under the skin or through a vein) and other medications will mostly likely be needed.
5. F.U.S. in cats that are not blocked may require similar treatment, but are more likely to be treated at home after an examination and laboratory tests.
6. Prevention of F.U.S. may involve:
• Feeding of special diets, preferably moist of semi-moist.
• Adding salt to each meal, to increase drinking and urination
• Medication to prevent urinary infections, and to decrease "sand" formation in the urine.
7. Despite the best efforts of owners and veterinarians, F.U.S. may be a recurring problem.
8. If your cat becomes "blocked" more than once, surgery may be required to remove the site of the obstruction. This will not prevent the F.U.S., but will prevent the dangerous obstruction to urination. Your pet's doctor can answer your questions best.

If your pet is allergic to fleas, then even one flea can start him scratching.

Fleas transmit tapeworms to dogs and cats.

Fleas are resistant and determined, you must be more so!!

Flea larvae can survive for up to 2 years in a house.

Fleas are often a medical problem for your pet. Please consult your veterinarian

Only one in ten fleas is on your pet at any one time. The other nine are in the house and yard. Assume fleas are everywhere.

You may never see your cat act more "independently" than when you try to give it pills. But it can be done without too much trouble. Here are some swift tips to make the idea of a pill a lot easier to swallow:

1. Have someone hold your cats front legs and chest from behind so you're free to do the rest, or vice versa. If you have trouble, drape a blanket or towel over your cat. 
2. Put your hand on top of the cat's head, avoiding the lower jaw. Raise the head until its nose points to the ceiling. As the mouth opens, use your other hand to hold the pill and press down on the lower jaw, pushing the pill as far back on the tongue as possible.
3. Close its mouth, making sure you and your partner keep a firm hold, then rub the nose. This will force your cat to lick its own nose, which makes swallowing easier. Don't forget to give plenty of praise each time your cat swallows a pill.

Remember:

- The more quickly you perform these steps, the better.
- Film-coated pills are best. They go down easier and don't dissolve as quickly.
- If you can't get the pill down, try disguising it in something your cat loves, such as tuna or cream cheese. Check with your veterinarian, as some medications should NOT be given with food.
- Avoid human medications like aspirin or acetaminophen which can be harmful or fatal!
- Always comply fully with your veterinarian's dosing instructions; no matter how quickly your cat seems to be getting better.

If your veterinarian has prescribed pills for your dog, don't worry. Giving pills to your pet at home is simply a matter of a little know-how and plenty of praise:

1. Gently take hold of the head from above, placing your thumb and fingers on either side of the muzzle. Squeeze firmly in and up just behind the canine teeth. The dog's mouth should open. 
2. Use your free hand to hold on to the pill while lowering the animal's jaw. With the mouth open wide, place the pill as far back on the tongue as possible, pushing it even further with your index finger. 
3. Gently close and hold the muzzle while your dog swallows. You can encourage this by stroking the throat downward. Finally, give your dog lots of praise and reinforcement each time he/she swallows a pill.

Remember:

- The more quickly you perform the above steps, the better.
- Film-coated pills are best. They go down easier and don't dissolve as quickly, which is important if it takes you more than one try.
- If you can't get the pill down, try disguising it with something your dog loves, such as peanut butter, or cream cheese. Check with your veterinarian, because some medications should not be given with food.
- Avoid "human" medication. Some like ibuprofen, can be harmful or fatal.
- Always comply fully with your veterinarian's dosing instructions, no matter how quickly your dog seems to be getting better.

For some people, allergies or a hectic lifestyle may make owning a conventional pet difficult, consider the possibility of having a reptile as a pet. These pets can have individual personalities and can provide a lot of enjoyment for the right owner. However, these pets are not maintenance free and do require social time just like any other pet.

Before making such an important purchase, and after considering the maturity of your child, you must consider the public health concerns associated with these pets. Households with children under the age of 5 years, expecting a newborn, or anyone who is immunocompromised should not consider these pets. Also, having the reptile roam the household is not acceptable, and they must be kept out of food preparation areas. Anytime someone handles a reptile, they should wash up with soap and water.

Take the time to research the specific, captive-bred species available to our area and, especially learn any special requirements for diet, housing, and heating. For most species, an aquarium that is sufficiently large enough to allow the adult-sized reptile to move around freely with a secure, locking screen-top will be suitable for most reptiles. Most of the large reptiles such as iguanas and the larger snakes will require custom-built terrariums as they grow larger.

Once the dimensions are settled, the interior contents are another concern. Various forms of bedding specific to each species are available. After ensuring that the bedding is safe for the reptile, ensure that any other in-cage objects are non-toxic, and have no sharp edges. Anticipate the need for an area(s) that allow climbing for exercise and shelter for hiding. Most reptiles also require basking areas but make sure that the pet cannot contact the incandescent light source, and have the light source timed to mimic daily lighting requirements.

Reptiles have a poor ability to sense thermal burns until it is too late and medical care is required. Therefore, heated rocks or similar in-cage heat sources are to be discouraged. One manner to heat the vivarium is to purchase an exterior heater, and place the terrarium on wood risers with the heater under one end. Doing so, allows for a temperature gradient to set up, both across and vertically within the enclosure. Bear in mind that most reptiles benefit from a slight temperature drop during the night too. Most reptiles require a source of dechlorinated water both for drinking, bathing and to increase the humidity that should be changed every other day, however make sure the dish is not too deep. Finally, set up a thermometer to allow daily temperature checks, and consider daily mistings for your pet.

A great way to introduce your children to the responsibility of pet ownership is to begin with a fresh water fish tank. The initial investment, including fish, is well under $100.00 for a five-gallon tank/starter package. However, all too often, the fish depart earlier than expected, due to just a simple lack of planning.

Before making any purchase, you can take your child to a local pet supply company and look at the various types of cold-water fishes. Something that applies to any pet purchase is to make a point of ensuring that your child has a genuine interest in this form of pet, beyond just the novelty. Take some time to instil the daily care aspects that are involved with this pet and, extrapolate this to all pets.

Once this is clear, start planning the tank's contents, and location with your child. Also, fish like to hide so a few, small plastic plants should be used as well. Pick an area in the room where the tank will be placed, away from radiators, air ducts and out of direct sunlight, to avoid temperature fluctuations.

The main reason for a fish's premature departure from your tank is poor tank preparation. First, the water used in the tank must be conditioned to remove all the chlorine, which can be done by allowing the water to age for 48 hours, or by adding a water conditioner. The next step is to set up and activate a biofilter.

A biofilter describes the bacterial content of your fish tank, and is not the actual filter itself. Fish produce three forms of wastes that build up in the water, and the biofilter bacteria that grow in the water, and on the gravel and filter surfaces, remove two of them for you. Changing ¼ of the tank's water volume every two weeks will control the build up of the third waste product. The fact that your first fish expires within the first three weeks is usually due to the lack of the biofilter bacteria being active, or in high enough numbers to deal with the amount of waste produced. An easy way to set up the biofilter, before you purchase any fish, is to buy a biofilter starter package from the pet store. These bacteria are safe for your family, but anytime the water is changed, or after feeding, hands should be washed.

There are three main types of water filters. There are two filter types that run from the air pump; corner filters, or under-gravel filters, or filters that sit on the tank's edge, or completely outside the tank. All these filters are fine, but for convenience, the tank-edge filters are probably best. These filters have various components that can be changed as required, and have no moving parts to break down.

A final consideration is the number of fish for your tank. For a five-gallon tank, up to four small goldfish are fine. But, bear in mind that the ripples created by the waterfall of a tank-edge filter add oxygen to your tank and, allows your fish to breathe. The bubbles from air stones do little for the water's oxygen content.